Seems like you don’t necessarily HAVE to have a wood, brick, or coal oven to make really excellent pizza. As you would think, it’s really about the ingredients, the composition, and the heat.
Wild Rise, the newish pop-up that occupies DUMBO’s 68 Jay Street Bar three nights a week, turns out more-than-credible pizza powered only by Con Ed. Its all-electric oven, customized to the max, brings 900 degrees plus. Even without the smoky, woodsy notes prized by many, Wild Rise’s Neapolitan-style pies deliver clean flavors, pleasing chewiness, and a welcome char.
The simple, satisfying marinara, made with San Marzanos, is “a tomatoey delight.” (If you like, ask for grated Grana Padano on the side.) It seems to have the look and feel of other highly regarded Neapolitan-type joints.
But these pizzas are not only the product of hardware and heat. Wild Rise imports wild yeast from Italy that lends the crust what Mike describes as a “sweet-sour complexity” that only deepens as the pie sits. “Try and wait a few minutes before eating,” he advises.
There’s also a really simple menu.